Santorini

The caldera, minus the cruise-ship hours.

Everyone knows the photograph. Fewer know that if you're on the Fira–Oia footpath by six in the morning it belongs entirely to you, or that the island's best hours are on the far side, where the vines grow in low woven baskets against the wind and the wine tastes of volcanic dust. We time your days around the ships in the harbour, not the guidebook, and put you in a cave house that stays cool when the afternoon turns white with heat.