A city that arrives all at once and never quite settles.
The medina does not ease you in. Saffron, scooter horns, cedar dust, someone hammering brass two doors down, and then a keyhole door swings shut behind you and there's a courtyard, a fountain, and total quiet. That contrast is the whole trip. We put you in a riad you'd never find alone, hand you over to a cook who shops the souk at dawn, and give you an afternoon in the Atlas foothills when the city has had its turn with you.